When you visit Gozo, some say it’s the closest you may ever come to stepping back in time. This is especially true when you take a stroll through the Gozo Citadel. Perched atop a strategic hill in the middle of the island, the Citadel (Cittadella) stands as a testament to the island’s tumultuous history and enduring spirit.
Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or in search of breathtaking views, the Citadel should be high on your bucket list of things to do on your Gozo adventure. Its narrow alleys and ancient buildings date back to when the Citadel served as a refuge from invaders. Today, it offers a peaceful retreat from the modern world, with stunning vistas of Gozo’s countryside and the Mediterranean Sea.
From the high vantage points along its medieval walls to its collection of winding passages, adventurers and photographers alike will find endless inspiration. And the restored ditch is a lovely spot to sit and take a well-earned break from touring all the historical sites Gozo Citadel has to offer. Come prepared – don’t leave your Gozo farmhouse without comfortable shoes (uphill walking is unavoidable) and a sun hat, and allow yourself plenty of time for unrushed exploration.
Early Gozo Citadel History
Before you head off from your Gozo accommodation to discover the island’s well-known cultural heritage for yourself, let’s fill you in on a little history to help you get immersed and make the most of your visit. In ancient times, the Gozo Citadel functioned as the nucleus of a privileged Roman Municipality. It was independent from Malta and played a pivotal role in the administrative, military, and religious tapestry of the area. It was here that an important temple dedicated to the goddess Juno once stood, its location now occupied by the Cathedral of the Assumption.
In fact, the Citadel’s architecture tells the story of how different epochs came together, merging into the unique structure that stands today. The north side bears witness to the austere beauty of the Aragonese period, while the south side, which offers sweeping views over Ir-Rabat (Victoria), is an architectural hallmark of the fortification efforts of the Knights of St John between 1599 and 1603.
The construction of the fortification ended what many believe was Gozo’s darkest era. For many centuries, the island was plagued by attacks from marauding Turks and Berber corsairs. The zenith of these harrowing times came in 1551. The Ottoman fleet, after being repelled from Malta, set its sights on Gozo and overran the Citadel. They captured and forced nearly the entire population, save for the elderly and infirm, into slavery. It would take decades to heal the scars, repopulate Gozo, and reshape the Citadel into the bastion of resilience we now know it to be.
The Cathedral of the Assumption
As you enter through the main gates of the Citadel, you’ll find yourself in an open square facing a grand flight of stone steps leading up to the cathedral.
Crafted under the visionary eye of Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà, the Cathedral is a stunning example of Baroque architecture. Its construction spanned from 1697 to 1711, with its consecration following in 1716. By September 1864, it had ascended to prominence as the heart of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Gozo.
Today, the Cathedral’s entrance is flanked by two statues – each of a pope who, historically, had a deep connection to the island. One was Pope Pius IX, who on the 16th September 1864 declared Gozo and Comino a diocese under the direct jurisdiction of the Holy See. The other was Pope John Paul II, whose visit to Gozo in 1990 remains a cherished memory among the Gozitans.
Despite its grandeur, financial constraints left the Cathedral with a unique feature: instead of a traditional dome, it is topped with a flat roof. On the inside, however, a trompe l’oeil gives the illusion of a dome’s three-dimensional depth to deceive the viewer into believing that there is indeed a domed ceiling. Besides looking up at this clever art technique painted by Sicilian artist Antonio Manuele from Messina in 1739, be sure to look down to admire the colourful marble tombstones that cover the floor, marking the last resting places of many bishops and priests.
Just next door, you’ll find the Cathedral Museum, open Monday to Saturday. Inside, there are over two thousand artefacts, including cathedral archives, paintings, clerical vestments, and silverware. To gain admission to the museum and access to four other Citadel Gozo attractions (the Old Prison, the Gozo Museum of Archaeology, Gran Castello Historic House, and the Gozo Nature Museum), you only need to buy one ticket. The ticket costs €5 for adults and €2.50 for children.
The Old Prison
Of the four principal attractions, the Old Prison is the most popular. Tucked away behind the Law Courts, this was in use from the 16th century all the way until 1962. Visitors can see the well-preserved prison cells, complete with ancient graffiti carved into the walls, which offer a stark glimpse into the lives of those who were confined within its walls.
One notable inmate was Fra’ Jean Parisot de la Valette – imprisoned here in 1538 for four months after attacking another man. He later achieved immense prominence as one of the most celebrated Grand Masters in the history of the Maltese Islands, taking charge of the construction of Valletta – the capital city of Malta, which was named after him.
The Citadel’s Hidden Secrets
If you’re not quite in the mood for prison cells and museums, you can simply wander through the Citadel’s quiet streets and take in the gorgeous panoramic views all around you. And as you do, keep an eye out for the placards that dot the walls – they give away all the Citadel’s secrets and share plenty of fascinating historical knowledge. And while you’re at it, see if you can locate the hidden north gate. This secret entrance was once used by the lucky few who escaped the Ottomans (and a life of slavery) in 1551!
You can also search for the Sally Ports, which connect a passageway that leads through a tunnel taking you out from the main entrance to the Citadel ditch. And finally, make your way to St Martin Cavalier Bastion. It’s the highest point in the Citadel and offers unbeatable views of Gozo.
Set against the peaceful backdrop of the island’s rural countryside, a trip to the Citadel is guaranteed to take you back to Gozo’s most turbulent times in history.
Ready to embark on the journey? Visit Gozobreak to find your ideal self- catering accommodation and start planning a journey back in time in Gozo.
